A Couple of Things

This blog has been neglected for nearly a decade, and I have decided to resurrect it. I hope you enjoy my grand re-opening post about making Thing 1 and Thing 2 outfits for twin babes.

This project involves a beginner amount of crochet knowledge, and I will detail how to make a crochet hat in any ol' size using *gasp* math and basic stitches. If you want to make onesies in this fashion you'll need a cutting machine and heat press. If you'd like to jump to where I actually talk project details, click here for hat dimension tips, click here for the hat pattern, or click here for the onesies. If you want to take the scenic route with me, buckle up.

My other-brother has been bffs with my biological brother since they were in 2nd grade, so since I was 10 years old he's been like another, well, other-brother to me. So obviously, I was delighted to hear that his wife is pregnant, and their four-year-old is going to have TWIN siblings. 

I love making things for people's babies. And when I've been tardy in the past for life reasons, their toddlers. There's something that makes me feel really good about making things to celebrate the people I love making good humans for the next generation. And then I get cute pictures of said children in what I've made. So gratifying. 

So what does one make for twins? 

For me, it was obvious. I loved The Cat in the Hat by Dr. Seuss as a wee sprout, and the parents have a sense of humor, which is probably important for this project as well. Read it here for nostalgia or if you have made it this far in your reading journey without this gem in your formative years.

I made the hats first. I can bust out a hat in double crochet without braining too hard anymore, but it does involve Maths to figure out how to size your hat. I usually don't fancy maths, but crochet math is practical therefore not bad in my humble opinion. 

First determine the circumference you want the finished beanie to be. There are many handy charts on the interwebs to help you figure out average dome sizes, should you not have the recipient handy to measure. If you do, you want the circumference and length of their head for a beanie. Measure around the head in question with a flexible measuring tape (if you don't have one handy, wrap a piece of string or yarn around and measure that with a ruler) about an inch above the eyebrows and right above the ear. This is the circumference. Then measure the distance from the crown of the head to the earlobe, which will be the length of the hat. I always subtract about an inch from the circumference of the recipient's head to get the finished circumference of the hat to account for negative ease; in other words you're accounting for how much the hat will stretch when it's being worn. If it's exactly the same size as one's head or bigger, it's just going to fall off. 

These babies are still baking, so I used a hat size chart. In fact, I used a few of them because there is variance depending on whom you ask, so I took a stab at an average. Hopes and prayers. Anyway, I'm shooting for these hats to fit an average 3-6 month-old, so I decided to make them 14 inches in circumference and 6 inches in length. 

When you're making a hat from the top down, as the simple pattern that follows does, you increase the number of stitches in each round to keep the top of the hat *mostly* flat (my hats never turn out perfectly flat on top, but that's just fine because I've never met anyone with a flat head either) until it's wide enough to fit, then you keep the number of stitches consistent for subsequent rounds to make the "tube" part of the hat. How do you figure out when to stop increasing? Here's where the math comes in. Don't worry, I promise it's not hard. 

Do you remember geometry? Maybe a little bit of algebra? If so, C = πd should be familiar. If not, no problem! "C" is the circumference, that magic number you're shooting for (in my case 14 inches), "d" is the unknown diameter or width across your flat-ish circle, and π is the symbol for pi, which is about 3.14.

I just plug the final circumference I want into the equation and get how wide the crown has to be before I stop increasing. 

C = πd

14 = 3.14d

14/3.14 = d

4.46 = d

In a nutshell, simply divide the desired circumference of your hat by 3.14, and that will tell you about how wide to make the crown. Sometimes there is a little guess-and-check involved, at least if you're me. For example, after 5 rounds at 50st, the crown wasn't quite wide enough so I went for row 6, increasing at the same rate of 10 stitches. These 60 stitches made the crown too wide, so I frogged that last row and increased by half as many stitches, which made it perfect. Yeah yeah, the pattern, I'm getting there.

The best, simplest way to make a beanie I've found is as follows. 

Supplies: 

Blue yarn--1 skein for both baby hats

Crochet hook 

Yarn/darning needle

Scissors

Measuring tape

Yarn needle threader to make your life easier

Stitch marker or safety pin to potentially make your life easier

Abbreviations: 

ch = chain

st = stitch

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

dc inc = double crochet increase (to do this, work two dcs in the same st)

rep = repeat

Notes: 

Gauge is not important but measuring is. Using the size hook recommended on your yarn label is a safe bet.

I recommend starting with a magic ring so there's not a hole at the top of the hat. If you don't know this game-changing technique, June Gilbank has a fab tutorial here, and even works it out for the lefties among us. If you'd rather not or are new to crocheting in the round, you may also chain 3, joining to the first chain to form a circle. 

I do not count the ch 2 as a dc throughout. I find that this helps avoid gaps around the seam that happen when you count that initial ch 2 as a stitch. It may be helpful for you to insert a stitch marker or safety pin into the first dc of each round so you don't accidentally dc into the chain. 

I end with a round of single crochet because those are usually slightly tighter than double crochet stitches, at least for me, and it makes a sort of band that I find helps the fit.

If you increase solely at the beginning of each pattern repeat, in other words in the same spot each round, then your hat starts to have points at each of the increases. To avoid this, stagger your increases. I built that into this pattern for your convenience, but as long as you're increasing, evenly, by 10 st/round in this pattern, you'll be fine. 

I'm including standard increases up through Row 8, but stop after you hit your desired diameter or alternatively, to keep expanding, add 10 more dcs per row spaced evenly. If one row is too small and the next is too big, I'll tell you how to split the difference after the pattern.

1. Ch 2. Crochet 10dc in your magic ring or chain circle. Sl st to join to first dc, skipping the chain 2. (10 dc)
2. Ch 2, dc inc in SAME st as ch 2 and in each st around. Sl st to join to first dc. (20 dc)
3. Ch 2, dc in the same st as ch 2, dc inc in next st, *dc in next st, dc inc in next st. Rep from * around. Sl st to join to first dc. (30 dc)
4. Ch 2, dc in the same st as ch 2, dc inc in next st, dc in next st, *dc in next st, dc inc in next st, dc in next st. Rep from * around. Sl st to join to first dc. (40 dc)
5. Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2 and in the next 2 st, dc inc, *dc in next 3 st, dc inc in next st. Rep from * around. Sl st to join to first dc. (50 dc)
6. Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2, dc in next st, dc inc, dc in next 2 st, *dc in next 2 st, dc inc, dc in next 2 st. Rep from * around. Sl st to join to first dc. (60 dc)
7. Ch 2, dc inc in same st as ch 2, dc in next 5 st, *dc inc, dc in next 5 st. Rep from * around. Sl st to join to first dc. (70 st)
8. Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2, dc in next 2 st, dc inc, dc in next 3 st, *dc in next 3 st, dc inc, dc in next 3 st. Rep from * around. Sl st to join to first dc. (80 st)
9. Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2 and in each st around. Sl st to join to first dc. (80 st)
10. Rep Row 9 (or wherever you stopped increasing) until the hat is very nearly long enough, or within about a half of the height of one of your dcs. Sl st to join to first dc. (80 st)
11. Ch 1, sc in same st as ch and each st around. Sl st to join to first sc. Cut yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail, finish off and weave in the end. I highly recommend June Gilbank's invisible finish technique so there isn't an obnoxious bump where you've ended your hat.

Now let's say your magic diameter number isn't obtainable with the standard 10 stitch repeat. For example, 5 rounds of 50 stitches was too small to obtain my 14 inches around, and 6 rounds of 60 stitches made it too wide. I split the difference between the two rows to fix this problem. The way this pattern works, you increase by the same number of stitches per round (10), so I decided to increase by half of that number for the 6th round for a 5 stitch increase. 50 stitches in the round divided by the 5 stitches that I want to increase is 10, so I know I will have to increase once every 10 stitches to get up to 55 stitches. That 6th round would then look like this: 

6. Ch 2, dc inc in same st as ch 2, dc in next  9 st, *dc inc in next st, dc in next 9 st* around. Join to first dc. (55 st)

Voila! You have a hat! Now make another one. 

Moving right along. Now we've got hats, next come the onesies. These would make a great beginner project for someone with a cutting machine and a heat press--I used my Cricut Maker with its Design Space software and my Cricut Easypress Mini, because the onesies are quite... mini.

Supplies:

Cutting machine

Image file/s, most commonly SVGs like the ones I used

Heat press

Onesies

Black and white HTV (heat transfer vinyl)
Weeding tool, scissors

Measuring tool

Heat-safe tape (I use the blue Cricut brand and it has never made colorful lines on my things)

Pressing mat or towel

Teflon sheet or parchment paper

I purchased two 100% cotton, 3-6 month sized, red onesies with long sleeves. 100% cotton is great for HTV, although I used Siser Easyweed HTV, which applies to cotton, polyester, cotton/poly blends, and leather. Make sure to check your HTV's specs to ensure you're applying it to the correct material. I love Siser vinyl, especially their Easyweed HTV for its versatility, two-second tack, and because it weeds like butter. No, they're not paying me to say that, but I'd love it if they did. 😉

I purchased SVG files, which are the type of files predominantly used in layered HTV, for under $2 on Etsy for this project. The Thing 1 & 2 font and circles are very specific, and I didn't feel like fussing with them. It was worth $2 to not have to worry about fonts and getting the circles nice and Seuss-y, not to mention for the layers to be right. 

I then imported the SVG files into my Cricut Design Space software, resized them to fit the onesies, and cut them with my machine in two layers for the white and black. Be sure to mirror all images for htv application before cutting. Pro-tip: I usually will do a test cut with an unfamiliar material with one word, then weed it, so that I can see if the machine cuts it properly with the settings I chose. I have, in the past, cut out a larger design only to find that my machine didn't cut into it far enough or sliced through the carrier sheet. 

After you cut your material, cut around the designs with your scissors and "weed" out the excess with your pointy guy. I have a habit of weeding on top of parchment paper, because it's easy to see, your materials won't stick, and your mess is pretty well contained if you have a lot of small bits to weed out. 

The next step is easy to overlook but super important. You want to preheat your garment for a few seconds to remove any moisture that might be lurking in there, and plus, it gives it a more professional look if you give it a good once-over with your heat press. Make sure you have a pressing mat or a towel underneath your project to protect your work surface. 

After you've preheated your garment, position the bottom, white layer of the image. Then measure, measure, measure to make sure you place it in the center. You can fold your garment in half lengthwise and press it to get a crease to know where the center of your onesie is, or you can just measure it like I did to avoid having to try to get the crease out afterwards. After positioning the bottom layer, I held the top layer above it to make sure it was oriented correctly, making sure not to set the actual sticky part of the carrier sheet on top of the first layer. Then tape down your first layer. I don't always do this with HTV because the carrier sheet is usually sticky, but with the Easypress Mini, you move it around the design instead of keeping it stationary like a heat press or larger Cricut Easypress. It's worth noting that if you have a larger Cricut Easypress, you can avoid pressing over seams by using a towel to elevate the space you're pressing so the seams don't obstruct the press. 

Then I tacked that bottom layer. Tacking is when you apply heat for a couple of seconds just to adhere the first layer enough to get the carrier sheet off to add another layer. When you press, there is some shrinkage that occurs, so the longer you press, the more shrinkage and the more your layers may look skewed. Plus, you don't want to overcook parts of your design while undercooking the other parts. As far as temperature goes, you'll want to check the manufacturer's instructions, or for Cricut materials, consult the Cricut heat guide. For the temperature indicated for my Easypress Mini (~335 degrees F), I turned it up to the second of three settings, which is the best one for HTV. I applied a Teflon sheet over everything to protect my press, though you can use parchment paper. Once my Easypress Mini was preheated, I used light to medium pressure while moving it around the design for a few seconds. Siser Easyweed's carrier sheets can be peeled off hot or cold, which is also nice. Peel slowly; I find a side-to-side rocking motion helpful, and if the design is coming up with the carrier sheet, re-cover and press again for a couple-few more seconds and attempt the peel again. 

Next, I positioned the black top layer and then used lots of tape to make sure it didn't go anywhere. Notice the tape doesn't overlap the design, just the carrier sheet. This is important so you don't get lines on your finished garment.

Then--you guessed it--I pressed it again! Just like before except for longer. Siser recommends pressing Easyweed for 10-15 seconds, but I did a little longer, perhaps by 5 seconds, because I was moving that Easypress Mini around. I don't know if that's necessary; it just felt right. Peel off the carrier sheet and admire your work!

Dang those are some cool things. I hope you think so too.

Rarrr, 
Jax

Heart Date Jar

So you finally get a day off to spend with your significant other. I don't know about other couples out there, but 'round these parts it usually it goes something like this:

"What do you want to do?"
"I dunno, whatever you want to do."

...Repeat ad nauseam. And at that point, it's about to become an argument and not a fun time. I have this feeling we're not alone. This month, the hubs and I celebrated ten years of being together, and I decided I wanted to do something special, yet also economical, to celebrate. Something that we can enjoy in the future. This is definitely not a unique idea; I totally yoinked it from Pinterest then added my own spin, but it is an easy, cute, and cheap way to say "I love you" all year round. 

You'll need: 

• Colorful construction paper. I used three different colors so I could separate them into different categories: orange for outdoor activities (so you don't pick something like "Go hiking" on a poopy day), pink for dates that are free for those in-between-rent-and-paycheck days, and red for dates that mean going out and spending money like the cliche dinner-and-a-movie date. You can make as many or as few categories as you want, depending on the kinds of things you and your partner like to do. 

•  Ruler, pen, scissors. 

• Mason jar. I got a pretty orange one at JoAnn's on sale, but you could get a clear one and decorate it or just leave it nekkid and let the paper hearts peek through. I would recommend one with a large mouth that you can stick your hand in and not get it stuck. Please tell me you've seen Clerks and don't be this guy:

 

Here's my jar:

First, you're going to need to measure out nine equal rectangles on your 9" x 12" paper that are each 3" x 4". 

Cut those bad boys out. I got over-ambitious, so I'm pretty sure I'm set on date cards for life. 

Write out your dates! Get creative. Include some things for you, some things your partner would like, and some things you'd both be down for. Some examples:

• Go bowling
• Go out for ice cream/frozen yogurt
• Watch the sunset
• Write a bucket list of things you and your SO would like to do in the future
• Coffee shop date
• Go thrifting
• Read to each other 
• Library date 
• Make a fancy dinner at home together and dress up like you're going out someplace swanky
• 5-year-old date: blanket fort, kid's movie, and coloring
• Play mini golf
• Go stargazing
• Go to a museum

Besides those generic ideas, I'd also highly advise you look for things to do around you as well. Be a tourist in your own town! Write out cards to check out that cool museum/garden/zoo/diner/whatever near you. Ask the Google Wizard. A good friend of mine also suggested I check out this website for awesome, off-the-beaten-path ideas, and I would encourage you to do the same.

Next, fold up your hearts. These are just the same hearts that you may have made in grade school to send to your little friends, if you were into passing notes. I needed a refresher, so I made a little picture tutorial in case you do too. Since these are made on smaller, thicker pieces of paper than the loose leaf I was accustomed to in the days of my youth, I recommend folding them on a flat surface to get nice creases and use less swears. 

First, fold the top right corner down like so: 

Next, unfold that and fold the other top left corner down.

Now, I'm sure there's a technical, oragami name for what I'm about to do next, but I don't know it. You unfold that corner you just folded and pinch the spaces between the folds in and smoonch 'em down. 

Next fold up the bottom of the left part of the triangle up toward the top of said triangle. Do the same for the other side. 

Fold up the left side of what you get in the above picture toward the bottom of that little diamond you just made. Repeat for the other side.

Fold the bottom of whatever you want to call that shape up to between the diamond and the widest point of the diamond. This is where the folding is different than your standard letter-sized folded heart: since the dimensions are different, you fold it up past the bottom of the diamond because otherwise a few steps down the line it doesn't work out so hot. Trial and error. 

Flip it! Flip it good.

Fold down the top layer of the triangle at the top--it's the roof to your house shape. 

Fold the bottom corners of the envelope-with-ears shape up to the center and tuck them into the "pocket" that exists between the two layers of the triangle flap that you folded down in the previous step.

Next, fold down the two little horns at a bit of an angle to make the top of the heart and stick 'em in the same pocket as your two bottom corners. 

Here are a couple of better pictures of the "pocket" and how the corners should tuck in:

Do the same with the other side, and voila! A cute, albeit not perfect, little heart. 

Depending on the size of your jar, you may want to invest in some candy to stick in there too, as my hearts aren't taking up as much space as I'd like. 

And therein lies a beautiful part of this project: you can add to it as ideas come to you (especially if you make ALL THE PAPER RECTANGLES like me, you'll have extras for a while). You can also make multiples of certain things, like going on a picnic, which is always a good option on a nice day.

Now next time you need a thoughtful gift idea that will keep on giving without breaking the bank, you'll be set! Then the next time you need something to do with your honey honey, you can draw a date surprise raffle-style and enjoy spending time together, not playing verbal ping pong about what you want to do. Enjoy! Do you have any favorite dates that would go great in this jar? Leave me some love in the comments. :) 

Rarrr, 

Jax

Secret Agent Baby, or How to Make a Baby Necktie

If you came for the meat and not the potatoes, scroll to the bottom for the necktie pattern. But I don't eat meat and I love the potatoes, literally and figuratively, and thus am not good at brevity. 

Full disclosure: I'm bad at internetting. I haven't updated this here bloggie for many moons. And it occurs to me that I have not posted a single blog about my namesake, my passion for crocheting. Let me fix that. 

The things I love making the most are things for people I love. Usually whimsical, utilitarian things. Sometimes I'll be asked to make something special for an occasion. So here come this blog.

Recently, an old college friend of mine got back in touch with me. I was thrilled! I have fond memories of laughing with her and eating pineapple pizza on many a night in our dorm. On top of the thrill of hearing from her, she was pregnant! And to top it off, she thought of me when she was contemplating a first outfit for a photo shoot. Aw shucks! 

I knew I had to come up with something awesome. She was having a boy and wanted a hat and a necktie, the only other stipulation being no blue, which I was totally down with because color-coding babies is fine but overrated in my humble opinion. She mentioned a necktie reminding her of a "secret agent baby." At that point it was on like Donkey Kong. 

I decided to go with grey with a baby green color. Having never had a baby myself and lacking a model to go through the trial and error process with, I decided to look for patterns. I found a couple good ones that I'll review for the hat and diaper cover (a diaper cover was not requested, but I thought it would really tie the outfit together), but I was unable to find a baby necktie pattern that I was satisfied with. Forget that noise, I made my own.

First off, the diaper cover pattern. I used a pattern from Yarn Blossom Boutique because the pattern included different size ranges from newborn through 24 months and the pictures looked like exactly what I was going for: simple, adorable, and functional. The pattern was well-written and easy to follow and the finished product was perfect. The only thing I changed was that I single crocheted around the piece instead of slip stitching because I was using a contrast color for the edge and wanted the color to pop more. I made two because the Newborn size looked too small, but as it turns out babies are indeed that small. Baby boy was around 5lb and the newborn size did the trick.

The fedora hat pattern I deliberated over for quite a few days before settling on this one from Kari O. Designs. A lot of people may balk at the price, but it includes sizes from preemie all the way to adult large and I have no doubt that I will use it again. In paying for a pattern, you are paying for all the time and expertise of the author, and $6 isn't much to ask for all the work I'm sure the designer put into it. The pattern was very detailed, included many high-quality pictures, including photos demonstrating how to get that characteristic fedora shape, and was overall well worth the money. It ends up looking professional and is easy enough for an experienced beginner who has a handle on basic stitches and working in the round. The hat itself is sturdy and on point. I didn't sew the band on in case the new momma wants to change it out to complement other outfits. 

And now, the necktie. I suppose I could clean this pattern up and have it tested by friends and sell it, but I have benefited greatly from free patterns bequeathed to me by the glory of the internet, so I'm going to pay it forward. Unfortunately, I'm a dummy and didn't take pictures of the process and this is more of a guideline than a Real Pattern, but hey, this is what you get for free.

Also, a disclaimer: this tie is intended for use as a photo prop, not a hanging implement for babies. Please supervise your beeb whilst wearing. 

Newborn Necktie

You will need a G hook, soft worsted weight yarn (I used two colors), one button (I used a 5/8" button, but you will need a size that fits between your double crochets but doesn't slip through) and a yarn needle. Gauge isn't essential to this pattern, since you may make as many or few rows as you need to get to 12.5-13" long, so your mileage may vary.

Abbreviations: 

ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet 

dc = double crochet

inc = increase

sc2tog = decrease by single crocheting two stitches together

If you don't know how to accomplish the increases or decreases, you betta ask somebody (youtube is pretty instant gratification for that sort of thing). 

Tie:

• Ch 4
• Sc in second ch from hook and across (3 st)
• Rinse and repeat until tie measures 12.5-13" long
• Sc 1, inc, sc 1 (4)
• Sc across for next 3 rows
• Sc, inc, sc 2 (5)
• Sc across for next 6 rows
• Sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog (3)
• Sc2tog, sc 1 (2)
• Sc2tog
• Sc around to finish, using a contrast color if you like. Start at top of tie, increase around corners so they lay flat, and leave a long tail when you finish off. 

Neckband:

• Ch 40
• Dc in back bump of ch across*
• Sl st around in a contrast color, if desired.

*This ensures that the bottom of the neckband will match the finished look of the top. Yes, it is a pain in the butt, but I think it's worth it.

Since I didn't take pictures of the process, I don't have my own photo record of the assembly. However, this blog does a wonderful job of demonstrating the knot toward the bottom. And if you're into sewing, lookie there, a tutorial for a sewn munchkin tie! Once you tie that bad boy up, adjust the knot until you are satisfied with the look and then tack down the butt-end of the tie with the long tail you left yourself. Sew a button on the end of the neckband; I chose the end without the yarn tails because this end was more aesthetically pleasing and serves to hide the other end when buttoned. I sewed the button on the second- or third-to-last dc on that end, if memory serves; you want to be able to see the edging, although I guess it doesn't matter what the back of your baby's neck looks like, but I am a perfectionist. Do what feels right. The tie can be buttoned at any point on the neckband since the double crochets serve as button holes! I did that because every baby is created different, and also in the spirit of CYA since I don't know how big babies' necks are. 

The best part, though, was seeing the babe himself wearing the fruits of my labor. 

Rarrr,
Jax

Some Thoughts on Robin Williams and Suicide

So I guess this is less about Robin Williams and more about the big S. I'll try to make it relatively brief, but you may have gleaned from my handful of other posts so far that I'm not great at brevity. 

Robin Williams himself was a brilliant comedian and actor who touched the lives of multitudes through his universal ability to make people laugh and feel good. I don’t want to downplay his tragedy by shifting the focus, and my heart goes out to his family, friends, and everyone who is saddened by his unfortunate end.

I have heard a lot floating around the internet about his death. A lot focused on the tragedy, how much he will be missed, and remembering the highs of his career, some even delving into his personal struggle throughout the years. However, there are some sour attitudes out there toward suicide and some amount of misunderstanding of the nature of the beast.

Some things I read called him “selfish,” a “coward.” This is what I want to address on this blog, through the bias of my own experience, which I won’t focus on—but suffice it to say this has hit close to home for me.  

Suicide is, if you look at it from the surface, selfish. It seems like the person has not even considered family and friends and is taking something away from them. In a way, that is true. BUT. That surface is deceptive; from the surface you can’t see the depth of the Marianas Trench. And selfish is not the way someone struggling with depression or bipolar disorder, or any other pain and illness, feels about it. It’s hard to see out of the blinders that descend upon you in the darkest times. Can you see in the dark? Doubt it. That’s what it feels like emotionally. There is nothing but pain. And often, you see yourself as a burden to the people around you; you perceive the ending of your life to free them from you and the baggage you drag with you. You feel like you’re dragging everyone down. There aren’t many feelings worse than feeling like you let not only yourself down, but everyone around you. Usually that’s a deranged mirage. But then, that’s the hallmark of mental illness, isn’t it?

And in regards to Robin Williams, or anyone else for that matter, being cowardly for committing suicide… I can’t imagine anything to be farther from the truth. I understand that perspective, I get it--someone who commits suicide is running from their problems and would rather die than face reality. But like my argument on selfishness, I feel the reality goes far deeper than what you see on the surface. Could you, right now, look death in the face and summon him forward, ready to face the unknown/whatever you believe awaits you after? Maybe some of you, but I would think that most would rather cross that bridge when it is thrust in front of us, if at all. I hazard to say that suicide is fearless, not cowardly. You want to control your destiny, you want to end everything as you know it. That is not the mark of a coward. 

I’m not saying suicide is the answer, nor am I trying to glorify the act. Far from it. A good support system, therapy, medication, exercise—these are all part of a short and incomplete list of solutions that can help a person, any one or all of them. Sometimes it’s not enough, though, and those times test the very fiber of a person’s being. If one makes it through, they make it through a better, stronger person. If one doesn’t, I lament the terror and grief that met them every morning, every sleepless night, every painful, bleak moment that lead them to lose sight of the light at the end of that long, dark tunnel. I mourn for them for having given up the battle and for their loved ones.

I’m sorry it came to that, Robin Williams. May you rest in peace.

If you or someone you know is struggling, there are many good resources out there. And for every person who would berate you for your condition, there are just as many people out there who understand where you are coming from, and even if they have not experienced it themselves, have compassion and would love to help you. Don’t give up. 

With love and empathy, 

Jax

Buddha's Delight

I decided last night while I was cooking to take some pictures and share what I made with you today. Don't mind the fact that it got kind of dark and so some of the pictures didn't turn out fantastic--Topher works late. Next time I'll go for daytime cooking. 

Anyway, this particular recipe comes from my favorite vegetarian cookbook. It's great because it has lots of pictures and simple how-to instructions for basic techniques and lots of great recipes. There are some cookbooks that I maybe use for one recipe or two, but this one is different. Love it. 

So. Buddha's Delight. It's vegan, it's low-fat, it's stir fry, and it's basically a whole meal. I made brown jasmine rice with it, and that's all we had. When Topher gets home from work so late, I don't like to make anything too heavy that I'll have to sleep on and will go straight to my derriere. I could have made egg drop soup to go with it, but I didn't. There you have that. 

What You Will Need

3 Tablespoons less-sodium soy sauce

1 Tablespoon dark sesame oil

1 Tablespoon rice vinegar

1 package water-packed extra-firm tofu

5 cups small broccoli florets

1/2 cup peeled, chopped broccoli stems

1 1/2 cups diagonally sliced carrots

2 Tablespoons canola oil

1 1/2 cups sliced green onions

1 Tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup snow peas, trimmed

1 (14 oz) can baby corn, drained

1 (8 oz) can sliced water chestnuts, drained

1/2 cup veggie broth

1 Tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

cooked rice

Note that I tweaked the veggie amounts because, for example, 5 1/2 cups of broccoli seems like waaay too much. 

Method

First I drained the tofu. You want it to be able to suck up all the marinade possible, and if it's waterlogged it won't do that very well. Cut it in half lengthwise or into strips widthwise, just so that it drains easier. You can either layer paper towels underneath and on top of the tofu, but I prefer kitchen towels because they absorb more and don't waste as much. (Note: don't use terrycloth, you don't want weird towel fuzz in your tofu--or maybe you do. Choose your own adventure.) Place a cutting board or tray on top with a couple cans or, as I used, a couple cartons of veggie broth. You don't want to actually Hulk Smash your tofu, so don't make it too heavy. Drain the tofu for about an hour. 

While you're waiting, go play with your ferrets. Oh wait, you might not have ferrets; in that case, play with yourself. Wait, that didn't sound so good. Just, you know what, forget it. Waste some time. 

Then make the marinade. Add the rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, and sugar to a dish with a lid. 

I decided after I dirtied a bowl that a shallow rectangular dish would allow the tofu to get more evenly coated, so I abandoned the former. That's okay, I hear Topher likes doing dishes. Let your tofu marinade covered in the fridge for about another hour. 

Next peel your carrots, ginger, and broccoli stems. Mmm, veggies.

Depending on what kind of rice you have, you'll want to start it and forget about it at some point. Some packaged rice cooks faster, but I like to have some bulk on hand. I used one cup of rice to two cups water. I brought it to a boil, stirred it once, covered it and turned it down to low and simmered it for maybe between 30-45 minutes? I don't know, it was until I could look through the lid and the water was absorbed, pretty much when the Delight was done. Then I fluffed it with a fork and let it sit for another 5ish minutes before I served it. 

Back to Veggie Land. Chop 'em up! I cheated and used a mini chopper to obliterate the garlic and ginger. It was a gift from my brother and sister-in-law one Christmas, and I initially thought, "I have a food processor, I don't need this gadget." But OH BOY was I wrong. Sometimes you don't want to bring out the big guns for something like garlic and ginger. Okay, a lot of times. ANYway, I know, I know, it said to grate the ginger. Well, I'm all about fast and easy, and honestly? It tasted just as good after I gave it a good choppin' in this mini guy.

Also, full disclosure: I double the garlic in just about every recipe I encounter. 

                                      

There. Easy peasy. 

                                      

You may notice I did NOT use 5 cups of broccoli etc. I don't know what kind of Iron Chef wok they used in the Cooking Light test kitchen, but I have a standard Ikea wok that doesn't fit that gargantuan amount of vegetables. Plus, you want them to, you know, cook. So I used about this much: 

Now you blanch the broccoli and carrots. 

To do this, add the broccoli and carrots to boiling water for 1 1/2 minutes, drain, then put them in a bowl filled with ice water and drain. 

Once I had finished all the rest of the prep work, it had been about 45 minutes, so I cheated and busted the tofu out of the fridge. The recipe calls for you to chop it into 1" cubes, but I wanted some big honkin' tofu hunks. Heat the canola oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the tofu, reserving the marinade for later, and stir-fry for about five minutes, or until it's lightly browned. 

Next add your green onions, ginger and garlic and stir-fry for another 30 seconds or so. 

Then the rest of the veggies! You're almost done! Let this cook for 1 minute or so; I cooked it for longer because the little pan and the vegetables were like a fat man in a little coat. Maybe that didn't make as much sense to you as it did in my brain; just cook it till it's hot. 

I don't have a picture of this last step because it's boring, but whisk together the broth and cornstarch. Add that, the reserved marinade, and salt. I added more soy sauce because I like it saucy. Bring it to a boil and cook and stir it for 2 1/2 minutes, or until it gets slightly thick. 

Serve it over your rice, and voila! 

Then have a glass of wine or your favorite non-alcoholic beverage. You deserve it.

Rarrr,

Jax